Onions are great – but shallots are a superior bulb altogether! They taste better, store for way longer, and are easier to grow, too. Let’s find out how to grow the best crop of shallots for a long-lasting supply...
Types of Shallots
There are two types of shallot – standard, round shallots, and torpedo-shaped banana shallots, which are in fact a cross between a shallot and an onion. I especially love banana shallots because they’re easier to top, tail and peel, though both types have bags of flavor, so I reckon it’s worth growing a few of each.
The really exciting thing about growing shallots is that each of these bulbs, or sets (which are actually cloves, like garlic) will divide up to form anywhere between three to 10 new bulbs – how cool is that! You can save some of the resulting cloves to replant for the following season, keeping the cycle going and saving you pennies.
If planting in the fall or early winter, choose a cold-tolerant variety. This is important because spring-planting shallots planted now might just end up bolting (flowering and going to seed) before they had a chance to produce useable bulbs.
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Choose between small round shallots and elongated 'banana' shallots
Soil Preparation For Shallots
Like onions, shallots prefer a well-drained soil somewhere that gets at least five hours of direct sunshine a day (although more is better). Fertility is important too, so I like to spread plenty of well-rotted compost or manure on the soil surface ahead of planting.
I mentioned ‘well-drained’, and that’s so important, especially if planting at this wetter time of year. Excess moisture needs to be able to escape freely, or it could cause the bulbs to rot. Building good soil with regular additions of organic matter will help to improve its structure and ability to drain, while at the same time holding on to enough moisture for our plants to thrive in the drier summer months.
I find that growing in raised beds really helps with drainage on my wet clay soil. But, if your soil does get really wet, it would be wise to defer planting until spring using a spring-planting variety, or plant into pots – more on that in a bit.
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Planting in plugs gives shallots a reliable start when the soil is very wet
How to Plant Shallots
As each bulb will multiply into a clump of cloves/bulbs, we need to leave enough room when planting to allow for that. Space them at least 6in (15cm) apart each way. If growing bigger bulbs is a priority for you, space them a tad further apart, say 10in (25cm) apart.
Plant them deep enough that the just the very tip of the bulb pokes through the surface. And that’s it til spring! They’ll quietly work away on producing roots below ground and getting themselves anchored into place then, at the first hint of warmth, they’ll rapidly sprout and grow away.
But what if your soil is absolutely saturated throughout winter? Well, you can wait until spring, but if you want to get a head start you can plant into large plug trays or pots. Fill the pot with all-purpose potting mix, place the shallot into position on top, then twist as you push it down. Fill in with a little more of the mix if necessary, then give it a gentle tap down to firm in place. There we go! Now let’s give them a water to ‘set’ these sets on their way.
I find shallots started like this can grow really quickly. You’ll need to keep them watered if the potting mix starts to look dry then, as soon as the soil is workable, they can go outside at the same spacings as our direct-planted shallots. Having ready-to-go pots of young plants is a very satisfying way to get an immediate shock of green out there in the vegetable garden first thing in spring. One moment it’s bare ground, the next a fine army of upright alliums are proudly standing to attention! Lovely stuff!
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Shallots sown or planted in winter grow away strongly in spring
Sowing Shallot Seeds
Sets aren’t the only way to get started with shallots. Starting from seed is the most reliable way to grow shallots if you’re growing at lower latitudes where this long-day allium may otherwise struggle. Seeds are also a lot cheaper than sets.
Seeds can be sown anytime from late winter to early spring – in fact, they’re one of the very earliest vegetables you can sow! You’ll get just one shallot for each seed, but if you multi-sow them this means you’ll still have clusters of seedlings the same as if you planted one set.
Sow seeds into plug trays of sieved potting mix. First make little depressions into each cell using my fingertips, then sow five to six seeds into each plug before covering them over with a touch more potting mix. And to finish, give them a good drink.
The most reliable germination is at temperatures above about 50ºF (10ºC), so in most areas they’ll need to be kept indoors until they’ve germinated. They can then be brought back out into a greenhouse or cold frame to grow on until midspring, or as soon as it’s warmed up a bit. They can then be planted at their final spacings.
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Shallots need little ongoing care but keep them well-weeded
Caring For Shallots
Now here’s one of the really fab things about shallots – once they’re planted, they need very little care. The main thing is to keep them watered in dry weather. Remove any weeds that appear, because those thin, strappy leaves are easily swamped by weeds that will block sunlight from them. Shallots are very shallow rooted, so remove weeds by hand to avoid damaging the near-surface roots.
An optional treat for your shallots is to feed them in early spring with a nitrogen-rich fertilizer. As an organic gardener I prefer to opt for a natural solution, so for me a sprinkling of pelleted chicken manure, gently tickled into the surface with a hand fork, is absolutely perfect for this. The extra nitrogen will help boost growth and reduce the risk of plants bolting.
I also like to apply a thin layer of mulch to keep the soil a bit cooler, lock in more soil moisture, and reduce opportunities for weeds. You could use any organic matter such as well-rotted compost, but I prefer to use thin but regularly applied sprinklings of grass clippings.
If you do find any plants trying to bolt, or flower, just remove the flower stalk promptly so the plant can concentrate on bulb formation, and use those bulbs up first when you come to harvest, because they won’t store well.
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Cure shallots for a few weeks before storing
How to Harvest Shallots
Gorgeous, gourmet shallots are ready to harvest when the leaves start to collapse and go yellow or brown, which should happen anytime from about midsummer, a few weeks or so after the summer solstice, and typically before onions are ready.
Get a hand fork in below the bulbs to carefully hoik them up and out. I like to do this on a dry day so I can leave them on the soil surface to dry off a bit before bringing them into an airy, shaded spot to finish drying for a further two weeks or so.
Once they’re fully cured, they can be packed into net bags and hung up in a cool, dry, dark place with good airflow, bringing in bulbs to enjoy as they’re needed.
The flavor of shallots really is very special! My favorite way to use them is finely minced into dressings to give them a lovely lift. What’s yours? Let me know in the comments below.
